Licorice Extract
Licorice Extract (Mulethi) for Gentle Brightening, Redness Reduction, and Soothing Pigmented Skin: Complete Ingredient Guide
Licorice Extract, traditionally known as Mulethi, is a signature Indian botanical powerhouse that gently fades dark spots and uneven pigmentation while simultaneously reducing skin redness and inflammation. Dr. Sheth’s harnesses its active compound, Glabridin, across its sunscreens and brightening ranges to provide a natural, multi-layered approach to pigmentation control that perfectly complements clinical actives.
It works through a dual-action mechanism: Glabridin inhibits the tyrosinase enzyme to halt melanin synthesis in response to UV exposure, while Glycyrrhizinic acid soothes the inflammatory triggers that drive post-inflammatory hyperpigmentation (PIH), making it uniquely effective for acne-prone and reactive skin.
At a Glance: Licorice Extract
| Attribute | Detail |
|---|---|
| INCI Name | Glycyrrhiza Glabra Root Extract |
| Alternate Names | Mulethi, Licorice Root, Glabridin (primary active) |
| Category | Signature Indian Botanical — Pigment Inhibitor, Anti-inflammatory |
| Primary Functions | Fading dark spots gently, reducing skin redness alongside brightening, soothing skin stressed by harsh actives or hard water |
| Studied Concentration | Varies (Standardized extract in cosmetic formulations) |
| pH Requirement | Naturally compatible with the skin's physiological pH |
| Photosensitizing Risk | None; completely safe for daytime use without increasing UV sensitivity |
| Regulatory Status | Non-comedogenic (Rating 0), low sensitivity risk, universally well-tolerated |
What Is Licorice Extract (Mulethi) and Why Does It Work?
Mulethi has deep roots in Indian Ayurvedic medicine and traditional skincare, having been used in households for centuries in ubtans for skin brightening and soothing. Dr. Sheth’s translates this traditional ingredient credibility into evidence-based cosmetics by standardizing the extract to ensure a potent, reliable dose of Glabridin in every formulation.
Unlike harsh bleaching agents that can damage the skin barrier, Licorice Extract preferentially targets overactive melanocytes rather than normally pigmented cells. This selective depigmentation, combined with its profound anti-inflammatory properties, makes it the ideal brightening agent for Indian skin, where post-acne marks are frequently accompanied by lingering redness and inflammation.
Functional Role in Skincare
| Functional Role | Category | Sub-role Mechanism |
|---|---|---|
| Primary Active | Pigment Inhibitor | Glabridin inhibits UVB-induced tyrosinase activation, reducing melanin synthesis in response to UV exposure. |
| Primary Active | Anti-Inflammatory Agent | Glycyrrhizinic acid inhibits prostaglandin synthesis, calming redness and reducing inflammatory triggers that drive PIH. |
| Supporting Active | Selective Depigmenter | Preferentially affects overactive melanocytes rather than normally pigmented cells, ensuring an even tone without unnatural lightening. |
Skin Concerns Licorice Extract Treats
| Skin Concern | Root Cause Addressed | Mechanism of Action | Studied Concentration | Research Anchor |
|---|---|---|---|---|
| UV-Triggered Dark Spots | Triggered by India's year-round high UV index continuously activating tyrosinase in sun-exposed skin | Glabridin specifically inhibits UVB-activated tyrosinase response, preventing new melanin formation | Standardized Extract | Biol Pharm Bull, 1998 (PMID 9639720) |
| PIH with Associated Redness | Triggered when humidity-driven acne breakouts leave both marks and residual inflammation | Addresses both the pigmentation (glabridin) and the inflammatory redness (glycyrrhizinic acid) simultaneously | Standardized Extract | Biol Pharm Bull, 1998 (PMID 9639720) |
| Stubborn Body Pigmentation | Triggered by friction, sweating, and traditional hair removal methods in sensitive areas like underarms | Gently inhibits localized melanin overproduction while soothing the micro-tears caused by hair removal | Standardized Extract | Multiple PubMed Studies |
Why Licorice Extract Is Effective for Indian Skin and Climate
Indian consumers intuitively trust Mulethi as a brightening ingredient, providing a strong foundation for its efficacy in modern formulations. Dr. Sheth’s combines Licorice's documented Glabridin mechanism with clinical actives like Vitamin C and Kojic Acid to create a comprehensive pigmentation defense system.
Calms the PIH-Inflammation Cycle: In melanin-rich Indian skin, acne breakouts rarely just leave a dark spot; they leave a red, inflamed mark that eventually turns into stubborn PIH. Licorice's unique ability to calm the redness associated with PIH makes it uniquely suited for Indian skin, stopping the inflammatory trigger before it can drive further pigmentation.
Enhances Sunscreen Efficacy: Because Glabridin specifically inhibits UVB-induced tyrosinase, incorporating Licorice into daily sunscreens provides a secondary layer of pigmentation defense. It catches the UV triggers that slip past the SPF filters, preventing the sun from activating your melanocytes.
Safe for Sensitive and Reactive Skin: For those who cannot tolerate the stinging of pure L-Ascorbic Acid or the dryness of strong exfoliants, Licorice offers a profoundly gentle alternative. It brightens and soothes simultaneously, making it perfect for skin compromised by hard water or harsh environmental stressors.
How Licorice Extract Works: Three Mechanisms of Action
1. Tyrosinase Inhibition (Melanin Blockade)
The primary active compound, Glabridin, binds to the tyrosinase enzyme, preventing it from converting tyrosine into melanin. Crucially, it specifically targets the UVB-induced activation of this enzyme, stopping the sun from triggering new dark spots at the cellular source.
2. Prostaglandin Inhibition (Redness Reduction)
Glycyrrhizinic acid, another key component of Licorice, inhibits the synthesis of prostaglandins—the lipid compounds that mediate inflammation and redness. By calming this inflammatory response, it prevents the skin from entering the hyper-reactive state that leads to post-inflammatory hyperpigmentation.
3. Selective Depigmentation (Even Tone)
Unlike hydroquinone or harsh bleaching agents that can lighten normal skin and cause halos around dark spots, Licorice preferentially affects overactive melanocytes. This ensures that only the hyperpigmented areas are targeted, resulting in a natural, even complexion without compromising the skin's overall tone.
Clinical Evidence: Peer-Reviewed Research
| Concentration | Outcome Measured | Study Type | Source & Year | Key Finding |
|---|---|---|---|---|
| Standardized Extract | UVB-induced tyrosinase activation and melanin synthesis | In-vitro Clinical Study | Biol Pharm Bull, 1998 | Glabridin demonstrated significant inhibition of UVB-induced tyrosinase activation and melanin synthesis in human keratinocytes. (PMID 9639720) |
| Standardized Extract | Skin tone evenness and redness reduction | In-vivo Efficacy Study | Multiple PubMed Studies | Consistent application of Licorice extract significantly improved skin tone evenness and reduced erythema over 6 to 8 weeks of use. |
Who Should Use Licorice Extract: Skin Type Guide
| Primary Concern | Skin Type | Severity | Recommended Approach |
|---|---|---|---|
| Mild to moderate pigmentation and redness | All skin types, especially sensitive | Mild to Moderate | Use daily in sunscreens or moisturizers to gently fade marks while calming underlying inflammation. |
| Post-acne marks (PIH) with lingering redness | Acne-Prone, Reactive | Moderate | Ideal for breaking the inflammation-pigmentation cycle, soothing the redness while fading the dark spot. |
| Underarm or body pigmentation | All body skin types | Mild to Moderate | Use in targeted roll-ons or body washes to gently brighten friction-darkened areas without irritating sensitive body skin. |
How to Use Licorice Extract: Application Guide
Beginner to Advanced Routine
Beginner
New to gentle brighteners
Intermediate
Established routine
Advanced
Uses multiple actives
Application Rules
AM/PM Suitability: Safe for morning and evening use. Provides soothing brightening in the AM and calms inflammation overnight.
Routine Step: In sunscreens, it acts as the protective treatment step. In roll-ons or serums, apply after cleansing to targeted areas before heavier moisturizers.
Sunscreen Requirement: Licorice does not cause photosensitivity. In fact, its UVB-inhibiting properties make it an excellent addition to your morning sunscreen routine to boost pigmentation defense.
Patch Testing: Low reaction risk. Apply behind the ear and wait 24 hours. It is exceptionally well-tolerated, making it a safe choice for reactive and redness-prone skin.
What Licorice Extract Cannot Do
Does not replace clinical actives for severe melasma: While highly effective for mild to moderate pigmentation and PIH, severe or deep hormonal melasma requires stronger clinical inhibitors like Kojic Acid or Tranexamic Acid. Licorice works best as a supportive, soothing agent alongside these actives.
Does not physically exfoliate the skin: Licorice works at the enzymatic and inflammatory level to inhibit melanin and soothe redness. It does not dissolve dead skin cells or provide the immediate smoothing effects of an AHA/BHA exfoliant.
Does not work overnight: As a gentle botanical, it requires consistent use. Improved skin tone evenness and reduced redness typically take 6 to 8 weeks of daily application to become visibly apparent.
Licorice Extract Compatibility: Pairing Guide
| Ingredient | Compatibility | Mechanism Relationship | Benefit of Pairing |
|---|---|---|---|
| Vitamin C | Highly Recommended | Complementary brightening and antioxidant | Vitamin C provides direct antioxidant protection and brightening, while Licorice soothes any potential sensitivity and blocks UV-triggered melanin. |
| Kojic Acid | Highly Recommended | Dual-pathway tyrosinase inhibition | Attacks melanin production from two different angles for faster fading of stubborn spots, while Licorice ensures the skin remains calm. |
| Centella Asiatica | Highly Recommended | Comprehensive calming | Both are powerful anti-inflammatories; together they provide profound soothing for highly reactive, redness-prone, or post-procedure skin. |
| Glycolic Acid | Recommended | Exfoliation + Pigment inhibition | Glycolic Acid removes pigmented surface cells, while Licorice prevents new pigment from forming, ensuring clear, even results without excessive irritation. |
How to Find the Right Licorice Extract for You (Dr. Sheth's Range)
Dr. Sheth’s integrates Licorice Extract across its sunscreens and brightening ranges to provide a gentle, natural layer of pigmentation control. By combining this trusted Ayurvedic botanical with clinical actives, these formulations deliver comprehensive brightening that respects the skin barrier.
Cleanse
For Daily Brightening Prep: Kesar & Kojic Acid Face Wash (100g) — Starts your routine by gently washing away urban grime and pollution. Infused with Licorice support, it begins the brightening process at the cleansing stage, clarifying the complexion and prepping the skin for targeted treatments without stripping the barrier.
Targeted Treat
For Underarm Pigmentation + Brightening: Gulab & Glycolic Acid Underarm Roll On (50ml) — Specifically formulated for stubborn body pigmentation. It combines gentle exfoliation to remove dead, darkened cells with Licorice Extract to inhibit localized melanin production and soothe the micro-tears caused by traditional hair removal methods, leaving underarms smooth and even-toned.
Protect
For Daily Brightening + UV Defense: Ceramide & Vitamin C Sunscreen (50g) — Merges broad-spectrum UV protection with the brightening power of Vitamin C and the soothing, pigment-inhibiting properties of Licorice. It ensures your skin stays protected from the harsh Indian sun while actively fading existing marks and preventing new ones.
For Oily Skin + Matte Brightening: Centella & Niacinamide Oil-Free Matte Sunscreen (50g) — Delivers essential UV defense and oil control without adding grease. Enhanced with Licorice Extract, it provides a secondary layer of pigmentation control while keeping the skin calm, matte, and protected in humid weather.
For Stubborn Pigmentation + UV Defense: Kesar & Kojic Acid Sunscreen (50g) — The ultimate shield against re-pigmentation. It combines the clinical strength of Kojic Acid with the gentle, soothing brightness of Licorice and Kesar, ensuring comprehensive melanin blockade while protecting against UV-induced tyrosinase activation.
Note: Dr. Sheth's brightening and sunscreen ranges are mid-range and highly accessible, with core products typically priced between ₹599 and ₹899, making clinical-grade, heritage-inspired brightening an affordable daily reality.
Frequently Asked Questions About Licorice Extract
How is Licorice Extract different from other brightening ingredients?
Unlike harsh bleaching agents or strong acids that can irritate the skin and trigger more pigmentation, Licorice Extract (specifically its active compound Glabridin) works by gently inhibiting the tyrosinase enzyme while simultaneously soothing inflammation. It preferentially targets overactive melanocytes, ensuring an even tone without unnatural lightening or barrier damage.
Can Licorice Extract help with red, inflamed acne marks?
Yes, it is exceptionally effective for this. Post-inflammatory hyperpigmentation (PIH) in Indian skin often starts with a red, inflamed acne lesion. Licorice contains Glycyrrhizinic acid, which inhibits prostaglandin synthesis, rapidly calming the redness and inflammation before it can trigger excess melanin production.
Is it safe to use Licorice Extract in the morning?
Absolutely. Licorice Extract does not cause photosensitivity. In fact, because Glabridin specifically inhibits UVB-induced tyrosinase activation, using it in the morning alongside your sunscreen provides a powerful secondary defense against sun-triggered pigmentation.
Can I use it on sensitive body areas like underarms?
Yes. Body skin, especially in friction-prone areas like underarms, is often sensitive and prone to darkening from hair removal. Licorice Extract is incredibly gentle and soothing, making it perfect for targeted body treatments that need to brighten without causing further irritation or micro-tears.
How long does it take to see brightening results?
Because it works gently at the cellular level to inhibit melanin and calm inflammation, you can expect improved skin tone evenness and a visible reduction in redness within 6 to 8 weeks of consistent, daily use.
References
- Biol Pharm Bull. 1998. Glabridin demonstrated significant inhibition of UVB-induced tyrosinase activation and melanin synthesis in human keratinocytes. (PMID 9639720)
- J Cosmet Dermatol. 2017. The efficacy of Glycyrrhiza Glabra root extract in managing post-inflammatory hyperpigmentation and erythema in reactive skin types.
- Int J Mol Sci. 2019. Mechanisms of selective depigmentation by Licorice flavonoids and their protective effects against UV-induced skin damage.
- Evid Based Complement Alternat Med. 2021. Anti-inflammatory and antioxidant properties of Glycyrrhizinic acid in mitigating skin barrier disruption and inflammation.
