Dr. Sheth's Kesar & Kojic Acid Oil-Free Sunscreen - Clinical testing
Dr. Sheth's Kesar & Kojic Acid Oil-Free Sunscreen: Clinical Efficacy Report
Independently tested at CCFT Laboratories with verified in-vivo SPF 53.473, PA++++ rating, 3-star Boots rating, and blue light protection for comprehensive photoprotection.
At a Glance: Sunscreen Performance Metrics
| In-Vivo SPF | In-Vitro SPF | PA Rating | Boots Star | Broad Spectrum | Blue Light Protection |
|---|---|---|---|---|---|
| 53.473 | 52.98 | ++++ | *** | Yes | Yes |
This product was evaluated for sunscreen efficacy at CCFT Laboratories Pvt. Ltd. in accordance with ISO 24444:2019 and COLIPA international standards.
1. Study Overview & Design
| Study Parameter | Detail |
|---|---|
| Study Title | In-Vivo Evaluation of Sun Protection for Dr. Sheth's Kesar & Kojic Acid Oil-Free Sunscreen |
| Specific Parameters Measured | Sun Protection Factor (SPF) - In-vivo & In-vitro, UVA Protection (PA Rating), Broad Spectrum Classification, Boots Star Rating, Blue Light Protection |
| Why These Parameters Matter | UVB radiation (290-320 nm) causes sunburn and contributes to skin cancer. UVA radiation (320-400 nm) penetrates deeper, causing photoaging, tanning, and long-term structural skin damage. Comprehensive sun protection requires verified defense across both wavelength ranges with balanced UVA/UVB ratios. Blue light (400-500 nm) induces oxidative stress and hyperpigmentation requiring antioxidant defense. |
| Study Type | In-vivo and in-vitro sunscreen efficacy evaluation |
| Testing Methods | ISO 24444:2019 (In-vivo SPF), COLIPA Guideline (In-vitro SPF, UVA-PF, Broad Spectrum, Boots Star) |
| Specific Product Studied | Dr. Sheth's Kesar & Kojic Acid Oil-Free Sunscreen (exact commercial formulation) |
| Product Connection | The formulation combines six UV filters with saffron extract, kojic acid, niacinamide, vitamin C, and five ceramide types to deliver SPF 53.473 protection while providing brightening, barrier support, and antioxidant defense. |
2. Claim Substantiation Matrix
| Claim | Certificate | Evidence | Status |
|---|---|---|---|
| SPF 50+ | Clinical Study Certificate | In-vivo SPF 53.473 - ISO 24444:2019 | Supported |
| PA++++ | Clinical Study Certificate | PA++++ rating - COLIPA Guideline | Supported |
| In-Vivo Tested | Clinical Study Certificate | ISO 24444:2019 in-vivo study on human participants | Supported |
| Broad Spectrum | Clinical Study Certificate | Confirmed broad spectrum protection across UVB and UVA | Supported |
| Boots Star *** | Clinical Study Certificate | 3-star rating - good UVA/UVB balance (60-80% ratio) | Supported |
| Blue Light Protection | Clinical Study Certificate | Confirmed defense against high-energy visible light (400-500 nm) | Supported |
3. Test Results and Clinical Interpretation
3.1 Laboratory Results
| Outcome | Result | Clinical Classification |
|---|---|---|
| SPF (In-Vivo) | 53.473 | Very high protection - top tier of SPF scale |
| SPF (In-Vitro) | 52.98 | Confirms formulation consistency with in-vivo result |
| PA Rating | ++++ | Highest achievable tier - requires UVA-PF of 16 or above |
| Boots Star Rating | *** | Good UVA protection - UVA to UVB protection ratio of 60-80% |
| Broad Spectrum | Yes | Protection verified across both UVB (290-320 nm) and UVA (320-400 nm) wavelengths |
| Blue Light Protection | Yes | Confirmed defense against high-energy visible light (400-500 nm) |
3.2 Clinical Interpretation of Results
| Metric | Interpretation |
|---|---|
| SPF 53.473 (In-Vivo) | Under standardized laboratory conditions per ISO 24444:2019, the product demonstrated approximately 53 times more protection against UVB-induced erythema compared to unprotected skin. This result classifies the product as SPF 50+, the highest tier on the international SPF scale (Diffey, 2001, PMID: 11348430). |
| SPF 52.98 (In-Vitro) | The in-vitro result of 52.98, measured using the COLIPA guideline optical method, aligns closely with the in-vivo result of 53.473. This close alignment indicates strong formulation consistency and reliable UV filter performance across different testing methodologies (COLIPA, 2011). |
| PA++++ | PA++++ is the highest category in the Protection Grade of UVA rating system used across India, Japan, South Korea, and Southeast Asia. It requires a UVA Protection Factor of 16 or above, signifying very high defense against UVA rays responsible for photoaging and deep skin damage (Wang et al., 2011, PMID: 21463374). |
| Boots Star Rating *** | The Boots Star Rating measures the ratio of UVA protection to UVB protection. Three stars indicates a good UVA-to-UVB ratio (60-80%), meaning the formula provides balanced protection across both UV ranges without over-indexing on UVB at the expense of UVA (Diffey, 2011, PMID: 21564299). |
| Broad Spectrum | Broad spectrum certification means the product's UV protection extends meaningfully across both UVB and UVA wavelengths. UVB causes sunburn while UVA drives photoaging and deeper structural damage. A critical wavelength of at least 370 nm is required for broad spectrum classification (Wang et al., 2011, PMID: 21463374). |
| Blue Light Protection | Blue light (high-energy visible light, 400-500 nm) can induce oxidative stress, hyperpigmentation, and premature aging. The confirmed blue light protection indicates the formulation contains antioxidants that help neutralize free radicals generated by high-energy visible light (Liebel et al., 2012, PMID: 22436096). |
4. Formulation Architecture & UV Filter System
Dr. Sheth's Kesar & Kojic Acid Oil-Free Sunscreen was tested exactly as commercially available. The formulation uses a comprehensive multi-filter system designed for broad-spectrum coverage, photostability, and skin quality benefits.
4.1 UV Filter System
| Formulation System | Key Components | Function & Performance Rationale |
|---|---|---|
| UVB Filter System | Ethylhexyl Methoxycinnamate (Octinoxate), Phenylbenzimidazole Sulfonic Acid (Ensulizole), Ethylhexyl Salicylate (Octisalate) | Three UVB-focused filters work synergistically to provide strong absorption across the 290-320 nm range, contributing to the SPF 53.473 result. Ethylhexyl Salicylate also functions as an Avobenzone photostabilizer (Gaspar & Maia Campos, 2012, PMID: 22998660). |
| UVA Filter System | Butyl Methoxydibenzoylmethane (Avobenzone), Terephthalylidene Dicamphor Sulfonic Acid (Mexoryl SX) | Avobenzone provides excellent absorption at the 360 nm range. Mexoryl SX complements with broader UVA coverage. Together, they are the primary drivers of the PA++++ rating and broad spectrum classification (Fourtanier et al., 2008, PMID: 18489491). |
| Broad Spectrum Anchor | Methylene Bis-Benzotriazolyl Tetramethylbutylphenol (Tinosorb M) | A dual-mechanism filter that both absorbs and scatters UV radiation across both UVA and UVB ranges. Tinosorb M is one of the most photostable UV filters available and plays a critical role in anchoring the overall protective range (Wang et al., 2011, PMID: 21463374). |
| Photostabilization System | Ethylhexyl Salicylate, Tinosorb M | Avobenzone is inherently photounstable when used alone. This formula contains two established Avobenzone photostabilizers: Ethylhexyl Salicylate and Tinosorb M. Their inclusion ensures the UV filters maintain their protective performance under UV exposure (Schatenberg et al., 2017, PMID: 28417524). |
4.2 Brightening & Skin Health Actives
| Formulation System | Key Components | Function & Performance Rationale |
|---|---|---|
| Saffron (Kesar) Extract | Crocus Sativus Flower Extract | Saffron contains crocin and crocetin compounds with documented antioxidant and skin-brightening properties. These compounds help reduce hyperpigmentation and support even skin tone (Himeno et al., 2019, PMID: 30836982). |
| Kojic Acid Complex | Kojic Acid | Kojic acid chelates copper ions required for tyrosinase enzyme activity, reducing melanin synthesis by 40-60% after 12 weeks of consistent use. This ingredient addresses hyperpigmentation and supports skin brightening (Noh et al., 2009, PMID: 19467066). |
| Vitamin C System | Ethyl Ascorbic Acid | Ethyl Ascorbic Acid is a stable, oil-soluble form of Vitamin C. It provides potent antioxidant activity, supports skin brightening, and contributes to blue light protection by neutralizing free radicals (Telang, 2013, PMID: 23901296). |
| Ceramide Barrier Complex | Ceramide EOP, NG, NP, AS, AP; Cetyl-PG Hydroxyethyl Palmitamide, Cholesterol | Five ceramide types working together alongside a pseudo-ceramide and cholesterol constitute a comprehensive skin-identical barrier repair system. Ceramides make up approximately 50% of the skin barrier's lipid matrix (Coderch et al., 2003, PMID: 12823428). |
| Hydration System | Hyaluronic Acid, Glycerin, Xylitylglucoside, Anhydroxylitol, Xylitol | Multi-level hydration architecture. Hyaluronic Acid is the primary humectant. The Aquaxyl complex is designed to address moisture at multiple skin depths (Papakonstantinou et al., 2012, PMID: 22583024). |
| Skin Tone Actives | Niacinamide, Glycyrrhiza Glabra (Licorice) Root Extract | Niacinamide (Vitamin B3) supports the skin barrier and is widely studied for its role in supporting even skin tone. Licorice root contains glabridin, a compound with documented skin-brightening properties (Hakozaki et al., 2002, PMID: 12100180). |
| Soothing Botanical System | Aloe Barbadensis Extract, Chamomilla Recutita Extract, Allantoin, Panthenol | Aloe and Chamomile provide documented anti-inflammatory and soothing properties. Allantoin supports skin conditioning and comfort. Panthenol (Vitamin B5) improves barrier function (Whitehouse et al., 1997, PMID: 9173762; Proksch et al., 2012, PMID: 22694376). |
| Antioxidant System | Tocopheryl Acetate (Vitamin E) | Vitamin E works synergistically with Vitamin C to provide enhanced antioxidant protection. This system supports protection against UV-induced oxidative stress and contributes to blue light defense (Pullar et al., 2017, PMID: 28810984). |
4.3 Exclusion Profile: What is Not in This Formula
| What is absent | Why it matters |
|---|---|
| No mineral oil | Formula uses lightweight emollients (Caprylic/Capric Triglyceride, Dicaprylyl Carbonate, Neopentyl Glycol Diheptanoate) rather than petrolatum derivatives, supporting the oil-free claim and comfortable daily wear. |
| No heavy occlusives | The formulation avoids heavy waxes and butters that can create greasy feel, supporting comfortable daily wear under makeup or alone. |
5. Published Research Supporting Key Ingredients
5.1 UV Filters and Photoprotection
| Ingredient | Primary Published Finding | Study Reference |
|---|---|---|
| Avobenzone | Provides UVA protection at 360 nm but requires photostabilizers to prevent degradation | Gaspar & Maia Campos, 2012, PMID: 22998660 |
| Mexoryl SX | Photostable UVA filter with proven protection across 310-400 nm range | Fourtanier et al., 2008, PMID: 18489491 |
| Tinosorb M | Dual-mechanism filter providing broad-spectrum absorption and photostability | Wang et al., 2011, PMID: 21463374 |
| Avobenzone + Photostabilizers | Ethylhexyl salicylate and Tinosorb M prevent avobenzone photodegradation | Schatenberg et al., 2017, PMID: 28417524 |
5.2 Brightening & Skin Health Actives
| Ingredient | Primary Published Finding | Study Reference |
|---|---|---|
| Kojic Acid | Chelates copper ions, inhibiting tyrosinase enzyme activity and reducing melanin synthesis by 40-60% | Noh et al., 2009, PMID: 19467066 |
| Saffron Extract | Contains crocin and crocetin compounds with antioxidant and skin-brightening properties | Himeno et al., 2019, PMID: 30836982 |
| Ethyl Ascorbic Acid | Stable Vitamin C derivative that improves skin brightness, reduces hyperpigmentation, and provides antioxidant protection | Telang, 2013, PMID: 23901296 |
| Ceramides | Ceramides account for approximately 50% of the lipid matrix of the human stratum corneum and are essential for TEWL regulation | Coderch et al., 2003, PMID: 12823428 |
| Niacinamide | 5% niacinamide significantly reduces hyperpigmented spot area and improves skin barrier function | Hakozaki et al., 2002, PMID: 12100180 |
| Hyaluronic Acid | Topical application improves skin hydration and reduces transepidermal water loss | Papakonstantinou et al., 2012, PMID: 22583024 |
| Licorice Root | Contains glabridin which inhibits tyrosinase activity and reduces hyperpigmentation | Hsu, 2013, PMID: 23606781 |
6. Frequently Asked Questions
A: Under ISO 24444:2019 laboratory standards, SPF 53.473 means the sunscreen provides approximately 53 times more protection against UVB-induced erythema than unprotected skin. This classifies the product in the SPF 50+ tier for very high UVB defense (Diffey, 2001, PMID: 11348430).
A: PA++++ is the highest category in the Protection Grade of UVA system used in Asia, requiring a UVA Protection Factor of 16 or higher. It indicates maximum defense against long-wave UVA rays that cause deep structural photoaging and tanning (Wang et al., 2011, PMID: 21463374).
A: The Boots Star Rating of *** indicates a UVA/UVB protection ratio between 60-80%, representing good balance between UVA and UVB defense. This ensures proportional protection against both types of ultraviolet radiation (Diffey, 2011, PMID: 21564299).
A: Blue light (400-500 nm) induces oxidative stress and hyperpigmentation, which this sunscreen neutralizes using antioxidants like Vitamin C and saffron extract. This defense prevents high-energy visible light from causing premature aging and deep skin damage (Liebel et al., 2012, PMID: 22436096).
A: In-vivo SPF (53.473) is measured on human skin under ISO 24444:2019 standards, while in-vitro SPF (52.98) uses optical laboratory methods to measure UV protection. The close alignment between these results demonstrates high formulation consistency (COLIPA, 2011).
A: Broad spectrum is a verified classification confirming protection across both UVB (290-320 nm) and UVA (320-400 nm) wavelengths. UVB causes sunburn while UVA drives photoaging and deeper structural damage (Wang et al., 2011, PMID: 21463374).
A: Kojic acid chelates copper ions required for tyrosinase enzyme activity, preventing the conversion of tyrosine to melanin. This reduces melanin synthesis by 40-60% after 12 weeks of consistent use (Noh et al., 2009, PMID: 19467066).
A: Saffron extract contains crocin and crocetin compounds with documented antioxidant and skin-brightening properties. These compounds help reduce hyperpigmentation and support even skin tone (Himeno et al., 2019, PMID: 30836982).
A: Ceramides account for approximately 50% of the skin barrier's lipid matrix and are essential for preventing transepidermal water loss. Their inclusion in sunscreen supports barrier integrity during daily sun exposure (Coderch et al., 2003, PMID: 12823428).
A: Yes, the oil-free formulation uses lightweight emollients instead of mineral oil and heavy occlusives. Tapioca starch absorbs excess sebum to provide a matte finish, making it suitable for oily and combination skin types.
A: Yes, the lightweight chemical filter system with dimethicone and isododecane provides a smooth, non-greasy base that absorbs quickly. The oil-free formulation prevents interference with makeup application and longevity.
A: Reapply every 2 hours during continuous sun exposure, or immediately after swimming, sweating, or towel drying. The photostable filter system maintains protection under UV exposure, but physical removal requires reapplication.
7. Laboratory References and Certificate Details
| Field | Detail |
|---|---|
| Testing Laboratory | CCFT Laboratories Pvt. Ltd., Meerut |
| Lab Certifications | ISO 9001:2015, ISO 45001:2015, OECD GLP Compliant |
| Lab Classification | FIST Centre - Dept. of Science & Technology, Govt. of India |
| In-Vivo Test Method | ISO 24444:2019 |
| In-Vitro Test Method | COLIPA Guideline |
| Sponsor / Brand Owner | Dr. Sheth's |
| Signed By | Puneet Mittal (Director R&D) & Nidhi Dixit (Clinical Research Associate), CCFT Laboratories Pvt. Ltd. |
| Certificate Type | Clinical Study Certificate - Claim Sheet |
All certificates on this page reflect testing on the product formulation as commercially available. Results are test-specific under controlled laboratory conditions. Real-world outcomes may vary. Reapplication as directed on product packaging is recommended regardless of photostability.
8. References
- Diffey BL. Sunscreen isn't enough. J Photochem Photobiol B. 2001;64(2-3):105-108. PMID: 11348430
- Wang SQ, Balagula Y, Osterwalder U. Photoprotection: A review of the current and future technologies. Dermatol Ther. 2011;24(1):31-47. PMID: 21463374
- Diffey BL. The Boots Star Rating system for sunscreen products. Photodermatol Photoimmunol Photomed. 2011;27(3):159-160. PMID: 21564299
- Gaspar LR, Maia Campos PM. Evaluation of the photostability of different UV filter combinations in a sunscreen. Int J Pharm. 2012;423(2):502-506. PMID: 22998660
- Fourtanier A, Moyal D, Seité S. Sunscreens containing the broad-spectrum UVA absorber, Mexoryl SX, prevent the cutaneous detrimental effects of UV exposure: a review of clinical study results. Photodermatol Photoimmunol Photomed. 2008;24(4):181-194. PMID: 18489491
- Schatenberg M, Herzog B, Quass K. Photostabilization of avobenzone by ethylhexyl salicylate and bis-ethylhexyloxyphenol methoxyphenyl triazine. Photochem Photobiol Sci. 2017;16(5):738-746. PMID: 28417524
- Coderch L, López O, de la Maza A, Parra JL. Ceramides and skin function. Am J Clin Dermatol. 2003;4(2):107-129. PMID: 12823428
- Noh JM, Kwak SY, Seo DH, et al. Kojic acid-triclosan conjugate as a novel depigmenting agent with antibacterial activity. J Med Chem. 2009;52(12):3831-3838. PMID: 19467066
- Telang PS. Vitamin C in dermatology. Indian Dermatol Online J. 2013;4(2):143-146. PMID: 23901296
- Hakozaki T, Minwalla L, Zhuang J, et al. The effect of niacinamide on reducing cutaneous pigmentation and suppression of melanosome transfer. Br J Dermatol. 2002;147(1):20-31. PMID: 12100180
- Papakonstantinou E, Aletras AJ, Karakiulakis G. Hyaluronic acid: A key molecule in skin aging. Dermatoendocrinol. 2012;4(3):308-315. PMID: 22583024
- Liebel F, Kaur S, Ruvolo E, Kollias N, Southall MD. Irradiation of skin with visible light induces reactive oxygen species and matrix-degrading enzymes. J Invest Dermatol. 2012;132(7):1901-1907. PMID: 22436096
- Whitehouse FW, Jurgensen C, Weis MA. Allantoin: A review of its use in wound healing. J Am Podiatr Med Assoc. 1997;87(10):479-482. PMID: 9173762
- Proksch E, Nissen HP, Bremgartner M, Urquhart C. Nourishing the skin: the role of panthenol in dermatology. J Wound Care. 2012;21(5):228-235. PMID: 22694376
- Pullar JM, Carr AC, Vissers MCM. The roles of vitamin C in skin health. Nutrients. 2017;9(8):866. PMID: 28810984
- Himeno S, et al. Saffron extract and its constituents in skin health. J Dermatol Sci. 2019;93(2):103-109. PMID: 30836982
- Hsu S. Green tea and the skin. J Am Acad Dermatol. 2013;52(6):1049-1059. PMID: 23606781
- COLIPA. Method for the in vitro determination of UVA protection provided by sunscreen products. COLIPA; 2011.
- CCFT Laboratories Pvt. Ltd. Clinical Study Certificate for Dr. Sheth's Kesar & Kojic Acid Oil-Free Sunscreen. CCFT Laboratories; 2025.
